A Travellerspoint blog

India

!ncredible, India

Inspiring or Frustrating?

sunny 102 °F

“!ncredible India” -- is the current tourist bureau slogan… and oh how true it is. We only went through a very small portion of India but we were shocked how one minute it would inspire and amaze us, but then frustrate and annoy us the next. We met travelers who said they would never go back and others that couldn’t get enough. We learned a lot about patience and tried to smile our way through, but it wasn’t always easy. For example, it was common for a rickshaw driver to pretend that he understood where we wanted to go (so he could secure our business), or how everyone working at the bus station would have a different idea of when our bus would depart. When the reality was that neither the rickshaw driver or the people at the bus station had any clue as to where we wanted to go or what time the bus departed. Then add on the fact that it’s hotter than hell and that at some point (even if you are extremely careful) the food will probably make you ill. Yet, amidst all this frustration, there are local folks who were so happy to help us or simply meet us that they gave us the most genuine handshakes and greetings. The food was a vegetarian’s paradise, and we met hardworking bicycle rickshaw drivers who would pedal us both (probably four times their own weight) around the city in the draining heat.

Being constantly accosted made India a tough place to discern the genuinely kind people from those who were trying to trick us. Because of this, we had to always be on guard and be skeptical of anyone who approached us, or offered to help. Unfortunately because of this, we may have turned down some genuine people… but fortunately good prevailed and we met and learned from some of the nicest locals about their culture, religion and we were most impressed with how they keep their families under a single roof (including grown children, and grandparents). Thank you India for pushing our boundaries and testing our limits…
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Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 02:52 Archived in India Comments (3)

Attari, India

An inflated border closing ceremony

sunny 100 °F

We didn’t go into Pakistan, but we got close enough to look over the border wall and peer into a Pakistani stadium. Why would there be a stadium directly on the border you ask? Well obviously because there is a massive and ridiculously flamboyant display of border guards on both sides competing to see who could kick their legs higher than the other while walking over to drop their country’s flag and close the border gate for the day. Whew! What started as a little fun between border guards has now transformed into what is deemed as a very exciting show – we imagine it would be similar to what you’d see if the British built a half circle cement bleacher grandstand around the changing of the guards ceremony in front of Buckingham Palace. There were crowds and crowds of Indian tourists all pushing and shoving each other to get a closer view of the 10 foot tall MC leading the crowd in patriotic chants.
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Lucky for us someone has determined that it was better to secure a spot for the few foreigners that show up to the ceremony than serve them medical treatment after being trampled by the rowdy Indians. Thus the creation of what is called the VIP gallery!
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We have to admit that we were more impressed with the crowd’s antics than the actual ceremony. We felt like we were at a sporting event with the chanting cheers and raising flags. To get the party started they played loud Hindi jams that enticed the women (including Robin) to run to the front for some dancing.
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Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 02:23 Archived in India Comments (0)

Amritsar, India

The Golden Temple

sunny 87 °F

It was dark when we carefully walked through the quiet streets of Mcleod Ganj. Packs of wild dogs rule the streets here and at 3:00am we were the only ones up to catch the local bus out of town. We stood in the dark for a good 30 minutes fending off barks and rattling in the bushes (think: White Fang fire scene) and wondering if a bus was really going to come. Shortly after 4am we were on the bus and relived that we weren’t going to miss our connection… a few minutes later and we pulled over for both the driver and fare collector to get out and slowly brush their teeth and shower alongside the road… this left us all alone in the dark wondering once again if we were going to make that connection.
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With only a few minutes to spare, we boarded our bus to Amritsar and began our windy decent from the mountains. Amritsar was not on our original itinerary, but after talking to some folks in Nepal who had already traveled in India, we determined that the Golden Temple and the border crossing would be interesting sites to see, plus, Amritsar has an airport that provided us an easy escape route from India to Dubai.
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We heard about the Golden Temple’s free accommodation and were looking forward to sleeping on the floor next to 100s of pilgrims. Unfortunately, this was not exactly the case. We were ushered into a small secluded place for foreigners that wasn’t too different from a hostel, only here there were no assigned beds so you constantly had to reclaim your space (we ended up moving into a hotel and using this as a home base for leaving our shoes and filling up water). The good news is that the accommodation is literally 30 seconds from the entrance into the temple and most importantly the dining hall.
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The Golden Temple is a mecca for the Sikh religion. It offers free accommodation and food for pilgrim and travelers alike. The hospitality here is amazing and inspiring! Based on our rough calculations, the kitchen serves about 2,000 people every 20-30 minutes and for being fully volunteer supported it’s surprisingly well organized. Although the food is simple and very similar in each meal, it is a quick, hot, nutritious meal and the chia (milk tea) is amazing. Everyone sits in rows so that volunteers come down the aisles splashing ladles of dal, curry, rice onto your stainless steel plate. Then someone comes along and places toasted warm chapatis into your open plalms.
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What is really impressive, is watching how the food is made on such a grand scale (in the order of 100s of gallons at a time), and how the dishes are hand washed in a very organized assembly line that creates endless sounds of banging dishes.
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As we were wondering around the temple, we met Rajan and Jess, who offered to give us a tour of the ground. We ended up hanging out for about 4-hours and had a great time. We learned about the five Sikh symbols (uncut hair, comb, bangle, knife, underwear) and what the temple and religion means to the local Sikhs. We also explored several places that were not on the beaten path, including going underground to see the roots of a sacred tree, and visiting a nearby temple that was almost completely empty. We heard stories of how the Sikhs are the kindest and friendliest people are grateful to have experience it firsthand!
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Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 06:48 Archived in India Comments (1)

McLeod Ganj, India

Home of His Holiness, the XIV Dali Lama

sunny 77 °F

We had been looking forward to our trip to Dharamashala since the minute we left Tibet. McLeod Ganj (near Dharamashala) is the home of the exiled 14th Dalai Lama and about 2,000 Tibetans. Some people say that Dharamashala is more like Tibet than Tibet is under the Chinese rule, however we didn’t see half the culture here that we experienced in Tibet… there were no rug bench tea houses with thermoses of sweet tea, no high plains with yaks or yak butter, and the Tibetans don’t sing while they work or dress the same. However, in this place the Tibetan flag can be raised freely.
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McLeod Ganj offers a wide range of information regarding the situation in Tibet from classroom sessions to informational videos and grassroots meet-ups. The small mountain city also hosts a variety of activities to experience and learn about Buddhism including debating monks, lectures by monk, yoga, and meditation classes. There is a lot going on and most of it is either word of mouth or advertised on bulletin boards. It felt eerily like being back in college on the UC Berkeley campus speckled with Free Tibet stickers and shoeless hippies everywhere you look.
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We began our daily quests to learn as much as we could by having a spirulina (grown in India) sprinkled breakfast and some fresh air on our guesthouse rooftop balcony.
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In the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives, we sat in on a daily lecture by a monk who was one of the Dali Lama’s interpreters. This lecture focused on “destructive emotions” (i.e. anger, jealousy, ignorance and attachment). Although the lecture was based on old Buddhist scriptures, the monk twisted in modern life and used analogies and references us ‘youngstas’ could understand. He also reinforced seeking happiness from within and one of Robin’s favorite quotes was: “Seeking happiness from outside will only make you tired.” Here is the entrance to the lecture room with huge Tibetan protection weaves:
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We visited the museum near the Dalai Lama’s temple that had a very different perspective than the one we visited in Lhasa and portrayed a hostile takeover, rather than a peaceful liberation. At the museum, we watched a documentary called With My Own Eyes presented by the founder of the Tibet Oral History Project. This was a project requested by the Dalai Lama to interview elderly Tibetans (about what Tibet was like before the Chinese occupation) and then have them translated into English and Chinese.
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We had hoped to find a place to help monks and refugees learn English, and as luck (or karma) would have it, Robin was handed a flyer by a monk for an organization in need of volunteers at 2pm followed by dinner (monk made momos) and a movie (Kundun - biography of 14th Dalai Lama). Being called ‘teacher’ and hearing our student’s stories at the English session was humbling as we sat in small groups on the floor. The momo feast included 4 types of momos –potato, spinach, cabbage and chocolate. Never fear, we are determined to make momos when we return home!
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One of the great things about McLeod Ganj is that it’s up on a mountain so it’s an excellent place for yoga and meditation retreats. We didn’t enroll in any of the week long retreats but spent a few mornings with guided yoga and meditation classes as well as a long hike through Dharamkot to Triund. Along the paths between the towns we admired the many old monks who hiked uphill daily (one who from a distance totally looked like Yoda).
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Our Tushita meditation instructor shared an analogy with us… he said our minds are like a murky glass of water – full of thoughts. When meditating, we allow the glass to settle all the particles (aka - thoughts) to the bottom of the glass, so that you have a clear glass of water (aka - a clear mind). It all finally made sense to Robin; she just needed a water treatment explanation to make sense of it all. Unfortunately, we need a bit more practice before going more than a few seconds between thoughts :)

One of the reasons why we traveled to McLeod Ganj was based on a recommendation from an Aussie couple that we met on a boat in Thailand three months earlier. As fate would have it, we ran into Angie and Nigel on the streets of McLeod Ganj and caught up over dinner and a glass of fresh lemon ginger honey tea!
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We are thankful and lucky to have had the opportunity to visit both Tibet, and the Dalai Lama’s temple in McLeod Ganj.
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As we post this blog the Tibetan struggle continues with two recent monk self-immolations in the heart of Lhasa and China has once again closed Tibet’s borders to foreigners.

Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 06:32 Archived in India Comments (1)

Dharamashala, India

A taste of cricket watching wickets

semi-overcast 85 °F

To our excitement, the Indian Premier League (IPL) was having a tournament while we were traveling through India. We found a few options for games and decided to attend our first ever cricket match at the highest cricket grounds in the world: Dharamashala! Little did we know that McLeod Ganj and Dharamashala would be overrun by masses of Indian cricket fans that came to enjoy what is probably the most admired sport in India. When we arrived at what we thought would be a quiet and peaceful Tibetan town in the mountains, we were greeted by streets full of Indian tourists loitering in front of restaurants trying to get pictures of their favorite IPL players.
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The box office was literally a large temporary plywood box with a hole cut out of one side, but after battling the queue jumpers for about 20 minutes we ended up buying two extra tickets from a group of coworkers whose buddies didn’t show. It was still 2 hours until game time but the stadium was rapidly filling up. It was like a dance party inside with a live concert from two different artists, and the fans dancing their hearts out in the stands as the Hindi music blared through the stadium.
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Our section was open seating and we couldn’t understand why our new friends chose seats with what we thought was an obstructed view… but we quickly learned that this cage like obstruction was where the cheerleaders danced. We are pretty sure that many of the spectators were only there to watch the cheerleaders, who wore almost no clothing and had to dance in cages to protect them from the spectators.
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Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 06:17 Archived in India Comments (5)

Chandigarh, India

Refreshingly open and calm

sunny 100 °F

While traveling through India, we have noticed that roads just disappear, open drains (yes, sewage) run along the sides of roads, electric lines and water pipes form networks that look more like art, and the list goes on and on. When we arrived in Chandigarh (a city that was designed by Le Corbusier), we were greeted with divided two lane streets lined with trees, maps, road signs, parks, and best of all… sidewalks! It was a strange feeling of peacefulness in a chaotic country. The shops were in proper buildings so the sidewalks were free to walk on without being constantly accosted to buy something and the people were genuinely interested in conversing with us. At this point in our travels we considered this a luxury town and we arrived in style on a fully air-conditioned train from Delhi that served breakfast, bottled water, tea and coffee with the daily newspaper. It was a HUGE upgrade from our previous jail cells on the sleeper class trains (Robin loved every minute and was sad to arrive in Chandigarh, just 4 hours later).
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Trying to keep sorted, our first task after entering Chandigarh was to book our bus out! This required heading to the Sector 22 Local Bus Terminal and talking to the information center, which was as always, absolutely NO HELP (although the man working there asked us if we wanted to take his picture haha). We pretended not to have a camera and escaped on a bus out to the Sector 43 Inter State Bus Terminal to find more info on busses to Dharamashala. Everyone we talked to had a different idea of when the Dharamashala buses left town so we decided to just arrive at 6am in the morning and hope that we didn’t have to wait too long for a bus. Along the way home we met the first of many extremely nice ambassadors of this city… this guy gave us a map and some sort of flower:
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Walking around the town square we were struck with how we felt as though we were back in civilization; the stores were constructed in an organized fashion, and there were authentic brand outlet stores, a theater and a large grocery store with peanut butter! Best of all there was no traffic, no honking, and no dust in our face. We stalked up on groceries and then noticed the “Indian Coffee House.” With only a small sign outside the door and clouded windows, we didn’t know what to expect. After the initial shock of how full it was inside, we navigated through the busy waiters and quickly sat at the only available seats left in the whole place. We ordered from guys in funny hats by pointing to a huge menu written on one of the walls.
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We were pleasantly surprised to find a food stand right next to our hotel with an all vegetarian menu. We were super excited for our first take out meal in India, which we ate on our bed in the comfort of our plush aircon unit! We had some food that we’ve never seen before including $2 Thali (a dish made up of several small dishes) and vegetarian “meat on a stick” that wasn’t actually meat….
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We also picked up a bottle of Old Monk (Indian Rum) and a can of Thumbs Up (Indian Cola) so we finished off the meal with some cocktails.
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Chandigarh is home to a ridiculous Rock Garden that started off as a small personal project of Padam Shree Nek Chand that ended up getting turned into a city backed project. The garden path weaves through objects and statues that are made of industrial and urban waste including recycled terra cotta pots, broken ceramic pieces, old wrist bangles and all kind of other junk. The Rock Garden lacks any theme other than ‘stuff’ but was totally cool and fun to hang out in. There are even big kid swings! One of the highlights in the Rock Garden was when a group of university students swarmed Robin for pictures.
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P.S. Luck was on our side when we showed up for that bus at 6am… it left about 30min later!

Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 06:04 Archived in India Comments (3)

Hello my Friend!

Being famous for a day, or two…

sunny 100 °F

We are not entirely sure why (it’s probably because Kevin looks like Brad Pitt), but we have probably been photographed more times in India than we have taken our own photographs. As we walked down the streets of India, we are consistently photographed by either people asking “one snap?” or those trying to be sly but obviously using their cell phone cameras to capture what can’t be a very good, and is probably a blurry image, of the illusive white folks that have been tramping throughout India. We now know what it’s like for celebrities to alter their walking path in an attempt to hide from the paparazzi, but never the less, someone is bound to get that ‘one snap!’ We are normally not very comfortable with taking pictures of people, but we decided it was time to turn the tables and start getting our own snaps… here are a few of our favorites:

After several walk by attempts at incognito pics, we finally said hello to a group giggling kids that opened up the door for “one snap,” which turned into multiple pics while the photographers rotated in and out of the picture.
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As we were walking to the Golden Temple, a small kid (who’s only English was apparently ‘one snap’) requested a photo and then as we stood next to him, three others joined in.
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While walking through the Taj Mahal grounds, without a word of English, a lady handed Robin her baby, and the entire family stood next to Robin for the proud father to snap a pic. After a bit of a delay Kevin realized he should get a snap in as well…
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After being followed for 20 min Kevin turned to befriend a group of guys who eventually asked for every combo of snaps with them and us.
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While Robin seemed to attract the most photographs (mainly by men), Kevin scored the most handshakes… probably more than Obama has had in his current election campaign! The usually older men would approach him with a friendly handshake and ask “what country?” Then there would be a long uncomfortable silence while holding hands for a minute that would usually be followed by handshakes from all of his friends. Most of the women seemed to be on the shy side until there was a group of them at which point the smiles and giggles turn into hugs.
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While India seemed like an exhausting photo shoot at times, we were happy that for a little of our time, we could create so many smiles.

Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 04:09 Archived in India Comments (2)

Delhi, India

Into a metropolis… sort of

The best part about HUGE cities is the public transportation, and as you can see, Delhi’s is particularly well used.
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We stayed with Saurabh in a suburb of Delhi called Dwarka (section 10). We enjoyed being out of the busy downtown for a few days and were excited to watch some locals play cricket from the balcony and sample some homemade chapatti while having dinner with his parents. One night Saurabh took us to experience our first Sikh place of worship called Gurdwara Bangla Sahib and had us excited for our upcoming trip to the Golden Temple.
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Another night we drove to Jawaharlal Nehru University for some grub and a nice walk through the campus. Luckily Saurabh had some contacts to get us past the guard gates; something we would not have been prepared for had we bused it in alone. We also visited Hauz Khas Village and met up with one of Saurabh’s friends who runs a traveler’s café that is built on an unorthodox ‘donation only’ model. Around the corner we walked through a park above Deer Park which had some pretty cool old temple ruins that we explored just in time to watch the sunset. Sunsets are different in India because the thick layer of smog blocks most of the refraction so you can look directly at a perfectly shaped circular sun sink into the horizon.
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One morning Robin decided to call our travel insurance in fear that she may be hosting a parasite (likely giardia from swimming in Nepal). Within about 2 hours of the call, a local practitioner showed up at Saurabh’s door and prescribed some antibiotics, dehydration tablets, anti-nausea pills, multi vitamin pills, and one more that we can’t recall what it was for. The diagnosis was perhaps a little over the top and we were shocked that we could buy a $2 antibiotic cycle without a proper prescription! The end result of the visit was a casual hand written report that filled an entire page:
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Our last afternoon with Saurabh we had a little party with some friends of his. Lucky for us, one of his friends worked for a company that sold cocktail mixes so we had a fun time experimenting with different flavors. We jotted down some insider tips on where to eat and shop and then headed to our hotel in the city. The next few days we spent sightseeing with our first destination being the Lotus Temple (the seventh in a series of Bahith temples that were built around the world). Iniside the temple, you can spend 10 minutes of silence, a rarity in Delhi. The architecture reminded us a lot of the Sydney Opera House, and although it was quite spectacular we also enjoyed getting lost in a nearby park watching kids play cricket and stumbling on our first ever queue of people in India (!!!) on their way to Kalkaji Devi Temple.
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Of all the areas we visited we found that our favorite was a rather nice area near Karol Bagh which had somewhat fancier streets and was an interesting contrast to the famous Parantha Wali Gali Street near the Red Fort. Although we were excited about visiting one of the Ghandi memorials and had fun banging the huge peace gong, we hope they can find a way to improve the memorial layout for future visitors so that they can understand more about Ghandi’s life.
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Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 06:14 Archived in India Comments (1)

Jaipur, India

Delhi Belli… sicko in Indio

sunny 95 °F

The morning we were supposed to get a 7am bus to Jaipur, Robin woke up feeling nauseous, and proceeded to throw up in our hotel bathroom, then again on the street while bargaining with a rickshaw, again while we were riding in the rickshaw, and again out of the bus window while on our way to Jaipur. We expected to get sick in India but “Delhi Belli” hit us before we even made it there! Luckily we made it to Jaipur without any further incident and jumped into an auto rickshaw. After circling around the neighborhood looking for E block we finally found our way to Amit and Neelam’s house for Robin to rest. They live in New Jaipur and we expected more of a tech feel but we found it quite rural, with most houses in a state that makes it hard to tell if the house is either falling down, or being built. Luckily, the guard cows in front of their house were friendly.
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Surprisingly, after resting on the couch for several hours, Robin felt much better and even managed to eat some dinner at a fancy rooftop restaurant. Amit and Neelam were also hosting a girl from the Ukraine, whose birthday happened to fall on the day that we arrived so Kevin helped Amit decorate for the surprise party as Neelam showed off her amazing artistic skills while giving Robin a proper Hindu henna tattoo on her arm and hand.
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The next day we ventured into the city and had a hell of a time finding any shops, cafés or restaurants with some real aircon. Kevin started feeling ill that afternoon, so we headed back to our house to lie down. While Kevin tried to sleep under a fan that seemed like a convection oven in the dusty 100 degree heat, Amit showed Robin how to cook curry with a pressure cooker and taught her about the basic Indian spices that every household keeps in these nice silver tins:
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Unfortunately, by the time the curry was ready to eat, Robin felt extremely nauseous and ran upstairs to puke only to find Kevin just beat her into the bathroom. This was probably our lowest moment on the entire trip thus far, yet one of the funniest since we were in separate rooms when we simultaneously felt ill and collided in the bathroom. The next day, we headed into the city to a luxury hotel with AC, and spent the next two days recovering.

We eventually managed to walk around what is known as “the pink city” because it is surrounded by a pink wall that is rumored to have been painted pink for the arrival of Queen Victoria. We checked out a few of the tourist sites including Hawa Mahal (wind palace), which is has a beautiful façade, and a great aerial view of the city and one of the crazy busy intersections below.
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Then, seeing as Indians are very interested in astrology (and use it heavily when arranging marriages), we went to visit Jantar Mantar to check out some of Jai Singh’s instruments including the Vrihat Samrat Yantra (great supreme instrument) which is a 90ft tall 147ft base sundial that can give the time to an accuracy of 2 seconds!
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To escape the heat we took a trip to the fully air-conditioned movie theater for a Bollywood movie in a relic theater called Rajmandir. We splurged on the most expensive “Diamond” class seats on the aircon balcony with reclining, comfy seats… all for just $2.5. When we walked into the theater, we felt like we were celebrities attending the opening of our own movie at the Fox Theater in L.A. We talked to a nice couple for only a few minutes and by that time we had amassed at least 20 other Indians in a circle around us and were then asked for “one snap” over and over, until the lights started flashing to signal the start of the movie. The movie was called Tezz, and is basically the same as the Hollywood movie “Speed” but using a train instead of a bus. Although the movie was in Hindi it was a predictable action movie and there were enough funny one liners in English that kept us clued in. During an old fashion intermission we walked to the concession stand and had a good chuckle watching the upper class Diamond seat holders battle for the last of the samosas.
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Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 05:55 Archived in India Comments (0)

Cycling gone Wild

Agra, India

all seasons in one day 90 °F

As you probably know, Robin and I are huge fans of cycling and have plenty of experience with bike commuting, riding in Critical Mass and navigating the crazy streets of China and Vietnam… however in all of our past experience riding we have never seen anything like cycling in India! We haggled our way into some bikes and thought we’d have a pleasant ride around the Agra Fort, across the river to the baby Taj, and then over to the park on the opposite river bank of the Taj Mahal. Boy, were we in for a surprise!
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Imagine freeway traffic squashed into the size of two lanes and then change the road surface into half dusty dirt with loose rocks and the other half bumpy ash fault with potholes the size of your wheels. Now add in some traffic with equal parts pedestrians, bicycles, motorcycles, cars, big trucks and then throw in a few large animals (think cows and water buffalo) and a few piles of their manure for good measure. Now remove the yellow center line, and start the traffic moving in all directions (including perpendicular to the road). Place yourself on the side of this road mounting a kid’s sized road bike with skinny wheels, no gears and barely any breaks.

Listen as you hear every single vehicle honking their horn at random intervals (short and long), and smell a river of ripe sewage flowing along the side of this road. Imagine trying to merge into this chaos and when you eventually build the courage to do so, you see the faces of all these drivers turn to look at you in amazement… some of them begin yelling at you, others start waving, and some of them with jaws dropped unknowingly start to steering directly towards you… your instinctive reaction is to wave back, but then you quickly realize that all of them are now ignoring the obstacles in front of them and you start to panic and frantically pedal into a semi safe position.

You survive riding this main throughway for a few miles and make it to a country side road. You notice now that the entire road has been reduced to the size of one lane, but still have two ways of traffic, old men crossing the road and a herd of unpredictable goats coming towards you. As you look to your right, you see a large smile on the face of a kid riding a bike next very close to you and over your shoulder you see that you are being followed by two more. When you turn your head forward you slam on the little breaks you have to avoid hitting any of the 10 children that are pouring onto the street. Cheering and giggling they run alongside of your bike (think Le Tour de France maniacs). You grin widely, feeling like a star until you feel your bike sink and become harder to control. You look back to see that while you were riding, one of the squealing children successfully jumped onto your back rack and is now wobbling back and forth. You are so busy comprehending the sensory overload that you don’t even notice that your rear wheel has already lost half of its air, and then to top it off a huge gust of dust blasts you in the eyes and a crack of lightning and thunder darken the sky. WTF are you going to do now?

Stop, dump the kid off your bike, turn around, and start pedaling home as fast as you can. Just as you get back on the main road, the wind picks up and starts blowing trash horizontally across the road including the old school cassette tape that gets wrapped around your neck and follows you like a kite tail. You hear a ripping and look ahead to see a gigantic billboard sign rip in half and crash to the ground in front of you. At this point you aren’t sure if the pelting on your face is raindrops or pebbles in the wind so you increase your pedaling cadence… but as you do, your chain pops off the gears and gets caught between the frame and the single back cog.

Now is when you reap the benefits of being a celebrity in India. A second after you stop your bike to try and fix, a man on a scooter pulls over, parks on the side of this freeway like road and begins to help you. Remember that it is raining and there is trash being hurled horizontally across the road at you, but this doesn’t stop this man from smiling uncontrollably as he his fingers become greasy from working on the chain. Thank him and navigate your way back into traffic, then off the main road, past a twelve foot harnessed camel and back to the safety of your hotel.
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Posted by Robin-and-Kevin 04:30 Archived in India Comments (4)

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